Road to Kiparissi, Lakonias - Part II (11-9-12)

Trocadero at Night

Last night I had a nice dinner at an out-of-the-way Taverna in Athens, but tonite I am sitting seaside in Kiparissi after my 3-bus/9-hour odyssey. The stars are ever-so-bright and the people at the Trocadero Taverna are preparing my fried calamari and horta, with bread that is being heated with oil. Not sure what this means except more calories.

(Did I mention that they have "putin" on the menu - the potatoes with gravy, a Canadian thing, not the President of Russia!)

Mrs. Poulakis promised to get a hold of Nikos Papavalo for me, but she was not sure which Sarrises I could find, as they have moved to Athens. So tomorrow, I have my work cut out for me..The Trocadero people (Vourlos, who lived in Montreal for 25 years!) were not encouraging either, except to say that if I go to the kafeneion in the upper village Vrisi tomorrow night at 7 pm the old men who'll be there will know something about my relatives.

Paraliako Hotel

Meanwhile, I am staying at a charming hotel called Paraliako ("along the seafront") run by a very nice young woman -- but seems like I am the only one here. My balcony has an ocean view, but I can't seem to figure out how the heat works..

I would be remiss in not mentioning that the road to Kiparissi gives new meaning to the words "hairpin curves." Now I remember why there was no real road back in 1974 -- it had to be carved out of some serious stone, and it also wends it way thru villages that can barely accommodate a (smaller) bus. At one point, I noticed some one was smoking; it was our driver, who also at least twice was seen talking on his cell-phone as he navigated those turns -- Oy!

In closing, let me just say that there is no sweeter smell than the burning of wood stoves in a Greek village at evening time. Good thing, as it has already been established that many Greeks will not be able to buy heating oil this winter.

P.S. The bread has just arrived, and it looks like updated "rigani bread" - my brothers will know what I mean..
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